Jatbula conjures up very definite images to the bushwalking fraternity in the know. I had the privilege of completing this six day walk through Nitmiluk National park. I was one client in a group of walkers in a trip organised through World Expeditions. There were three guides, Michael, Reed and Travis, all young fit men who guided us all and helped the more nervous amongst us to cross rivers ( which included me).

This national park is jointly run by the Jawoyn traditional owners and the parks service. This walk and the fees that go with doing other activities in the park as well as monies from the excellent visitor centre, all contribute to the income stream from the park. The park provides many job opportunities for indigenous people here in Katherine.

July is the best time to do the Jatbula walk. In June the trailblazers have established the route through native greases and spear grasses, crushing the grasses. The regular burns have now finished allowing for new fire dependent sprouting of trees and grasses. The burn has also cleared the land for travel removing low scrub and the sharp spear grass. The seeds of spear grass are the main food source of the Gouldian finch. These small brightly coloured birds flies in the air in small flocks, sparkling with flashing green, red and purple, nestling together on branches of small shrubs.

The bigger trees sit aloof and only somewhat blackened on their trunks by the cool burns of this season.

The walk begins at Katherine Gorge as a short ferry ride from the canoe ramp to the opposite bank. The first day is 9 kilometres and was hot, mid 30s, as we clambered up to the high ground. The track is generally easy to follow. There are frequent white metal markers with a blue triangle suspended from trees, either hanging down or wired to a trunk. The track is variable. Some areas have smooth surfaces of gravel that permits quick walking, others are studded with rocks, some are on rock platforms. These sections get very hot underfoot even through my boots. The pounding of walking with a heavy pack on solid ground or rock gave me bruised feet. Each morning it was a bit hard to start but the ache settled down enough to enjoy the walk.

Each day ended by camping near water: waterfalls, rivers, waterholes and billabongs. The water is very clean and there were no problems about drinking it. After a long hot walk it was refreshing to cool off in this water. The water comes from Springs. Rain falls in huge quantities in summer, and drips through the porous soil and rock to meet an impervious shield of stone, the water can sink no further but bubbles and percolates along to emerge as fresh springs. As the water never travels deeply, it’s cool and crisp.

Other inhabitants enjoyed the water as well. We saw Rainbow bee eaters, I saw a forest kingfisher, whispering kites and herons hunted their respective prey as well. A water monitor lay on a rock near one waterfall while nearby a brown snake bathed in the sunshine. All this while we were all splashing around in the waterfall landing pool. Some waterfalls were tall, all were beautiful. The golden sunlight at dawn and again dusk lit up the adjacent rock face as water plummet down narrow slots.

Some of the highlights were visiting very remote rock art painting sites. The amphitheatre is a steep climb down into a wide gully and on the smooth face of the cliff, are painted crocodiles, barramundi, kangaroos and nine fingered bad spirits; red and white and and orange pigments were used to create these lively apparitions.

In the evening, I could stand on the bank and look down through the water. Perch and turtles were swimming, the perch with grace and purpose, while the turtles flopped around as if going forwards was a hazy concept, and beneath them, fresh water yabbies and small crayfish scurried on the bottom rushing into shadow as torchlight penetrated the depths around him. Small red eyes on the water, that’s freshwater crocodiles.

Dinner and meals were different every evening. Pesto spaghetti, cous cous, and many more with an emphasis on the vegetarian menu a sits hard to carry meat in these hot conditions. The guides would gather up the food and utensil bags were all helped carry to assemble meals. We would be setting up our insect nets, hanging them from cord strung between trees. On the ground, a simple tarp, then sleeping mat and sleeping bag. The sleeping bag is rated for mild climates. There is no way I could have justified using my alpine bag.

Looking upwards at night, the branches of the overhanging trees resemble delicate fingers with stars silhouetted far above them. The stars are cool and bright in the otherwise dead black sky at least until the moon rises from the east. I pulled my beanie over my eyes to shield them from the glare. The evening started warm but at about 2am it gets cool and I zip up my bag.

Going to the toilet can be interesting. I’m glad there is a no alcohol policy ( that’s a personal one) on these walks as the climb to the facilities can be steep and uneven. One evening death adders were coiled beside the steps leading up to the door. I developed retention for a few hours. They are composting toilets so water can ever flush down into the nearby streams and water holes. We don’t use soap or detergent even washing dishes to avoid contaminating the natural environment in any way. The numbers are very limited on the walk with only 13 people allowed per day. Most of them walk with walking companies but three people can go fee style. The competition to get these three spots is intense and many people have missed out for years.

The tracks are different each day and within each day. Some sections are exposed and the sun beats down through sparse tree cover, other sections are shady with gums, salmon gums, wattles, pandani and ghost gums. We did not see any wallabies or kangaroo at all. We saw ghost bats flitting and squeaking above us in the dark of evening. The region was not lively with animals during the day but at night I could hear the howling of dingos. It’s a plaintive noise from the skyline that hovers over the forest. Some dingos came through our campsite early one morning to flee when disturbed by our movements sleeping.

The other walkers were my vintage and mostly retired. They all enjoyed the walk including one man who thought it was going to be a day pack walk. Well it was not. The packs were initially 18kg and were finally 16 kg as the supplies were used up. It was good to share jokes and stories with the other fellas. Three ladies did the walk and enjoyed it just as much.

Most clothes were rinsed when we cooled off in the streams and waterholes. One walker placed his wet underwear in a tree to dry off over the remaking afternoon. To his horror and much amusement, green tree ants infested them and despite generous bets, he could not be persuaded to put them on.

The walk ends at Edith Falls. It felt strange to be amongst so many people again. Kids carrying floaty toys, mums in bikinis and Dads with snorkels. I felt out of place with my huge ruck sack, grubby Tilley hat and dusty boots. The walk is terrific, and it’s whetted my appetite for more adventures in the outdoors.