





This week we have travelled to different communities. Jennifer has driven up with a medical registrar, Sally to work the week based at Ali Curung. I have returned to one of my favourite haunts of 2016′, the little community of Laramba. I brought a student nurse with me who will be staying 2 weeks to my 5 days.
Today is Tuesday, and beside the young student Loren, there is Helen who I met last year and Natalie who is working a few months before taking up another nursing position at Gove. They are a terrific bunch to work with, more chaotic than some, but are willing to do the work and round up the patients I need to review. Natalie and L drive round the dusty and bitumen streets in the troopie, getting out of the car/truck to wake up people sleeping in the afternoon and most interesting for them, a card game of the ladies where many crisp fifty dollar notes were piled on the red ground between them all. Yes, it’s not just the men who gamble, the ladies do too.
The weather has been truly magnificent, about 30 degrees in the daytime, beautiful sunshine, a gentle breeze and a pleasant 10 degrees overnight. I walk to work, it’s not far but I’m thought of as a bit of an oddity trudging along the sandy road from my accomodation on the edge of town to the clinic nestled between the local primary school and the work for the dole centre. The children are wonderful. As I walk past, they call out Hi, Hi. They all wear a blue collared shirt, and blue shorts and run and tumble in the playground every chance they get. The best lawn in town is at the school and it’s protected from the sunlight by a large steel gazebo. It’s lovely hearing laughter from the school wafting around the clinic, best sound ever.
I have seen some interesting medicine, met interesting people, talked to some inspiring people, sparked a few ideas in my colleagues about how to look at problems and tore strips of a mother who did not have the brains god gave a badger by allowing her child to throw away a plaster put on for a serious fracture. I said to her that obviously your five your old daughter is in charge at home – why else would you not keep specialist appointments or do the right thing by her. If I put a plaster on now, would you let her take it off again. Of course your answer is yes. Parents abnegating their responsibility as adults is feeble laziness and a moral failure in their duty of care for their child. However most Aboriginal parents, especially the mothers, can deliver a tongue lashing if the kids step out of line. Overall kids do have a lot more autonomy, if they don’t want to eat or wash, that’s okay, until they get to school and meet Lucy. Lucy is the no nonsense head teacher and she has definite rules about hygiene and self care which she demands from the children – as a result the kids are happy with such a firm consistent hand, and all the little ones love school. One eight year old, a slim young lad said the thing he enjoyed most at school was spelling, closely followed by reading and writing. His mum was sitting in the chair beside me and volunteered that he already can speak three languages, Matabari, Walpiri and English. He is planning with his Mums support and encouragement, to go to high school in Broome to really study English, and he has his eye on another Aboriginal language too. It is tremendously encouraging to see a child and parent with the talent and wit to work hard at something the child loves doing. I talked about how it’s important to study white man stuff but also study Aboriginal stuff too. It’s not easy, it’s learning two cultures, two ways of thinking but the great advantage is that such a person straddling two worlds will have a huge knowledge and spiritual base to understand their experiences. White people tend to be spiritually and community impoverished, living lonely materialistic lives while Aborigines can live in each other’s pockets and inhabit a rich and real spiritual and magical universe. On the other hand, Aborigines struggle to cope with concepts of disease and the part they can play as individuals to ease the burden upon themselves. The welfare state of the 30s to 70s created expectations that white people will bale them out but I think they are rapidly learning they must be self reliant and stand up for themselves. Recently one community was basically diddled out of government housing money, where tens of millions went to bureaucrats in the NT government and was not used in producing actual buildings. They complained loud and long, good on them.
Most Aborigines are poor, they are cut out of the money making pie by location ( remoteness), education ( minimal general and vocational training opportunities) and for many, a lack of aspiration and for all of them a lack of opportunities. You cannot just fall into a career here like you can do in a major regional centre or big city. However, I am very optimistic about the future because of the children I talk too and hearing what they have to say. Education is definitely improving, the standard of reading and writing and numeracy is vastly better than it was a generation ago and improving yearly. I have spoken to many teachers that assure me this is the case, and all the many enthusiastic young students who tell me they love to learn certainly backs this up. Remoteness will get less with satellite based internet and communications, improved roads and better resources in regional centres – Alice Springs has a university and vocational colleges geared up for serving students from remote communities. How functional they may be open to discussion. There are at least five proper high schools in the central desert. The days where substandard education for Aborigines was assumed is rapidly going with more and more dedicated teachers. The biggest problem us truancy often abetted by the parents, but local engagement and encouragement is helping. Now in Laramba most truancy is connected to family dysfunction, reflecting potentially serious problems in those families.
Aspirations improve with exposure to realistic ideals of success and the ever increasing momentum from many inspirational indigenous role models, then through effort and opportunity, they will become people useful to their communities whether as Aboriginal health professionals, nurses, doctors, dieticians and all the other trades and professions. I had the pleasure of meeting Alice who is newly in charge of the work centre. She agreed that there is not much work offering but if you create it, there are lots of useful things that need doing in the Laramba community. Roads, recreation areas, public facilities can be improved or introduced. She has the wherewithal and connections to get resources from government, a process which is always a morass for the inexperienced. People like her can make an enormous difference to any remote community.
However, whatever the chosen career they should not abandon the magic, love and community of aboriginal culture, they will need that to cope with the modern world and stay Aboriginal in their hearts; indeed, I hope that with time they can share these skills with us all. We city people say community, family, love and faith are important but we don’t walk that way, instead embracing isolation, materialism, selfishness, and a vacancy in place of spiritual yearning. Aboriginal culture can teach us a lot about how to live life better as well as what not to do too. It’s all rather fascinating. The spiritual and magical aspects of all of our lives have been neglected for too long.
I went walking Tuesday night and then this morning, for the hour of sunset and sunrise, along the nearly dry Napperby Creek. It was about 30 meters wide when it was in flood earlier this year following the unusually high rainfall in January and February. It’s now mostly dry, sandy walking. There are a few lingering dark pools, mostly full of madly breeding mosquitos and insects. Yet sometimes they give wonderful reflections of the trees and grasses of the creek bed. The sandy floor of the creek has many undulations formed by the flow of water and eddies produced around islands, trees and shrubs. The ghost gums and river gums look especially beautiful at the extremes of the day, their multicoloured bark highlighted in patches by the oblique golden rays of the setting or rising sun. There are many birds enjoying the shade and water; zebra finches, ring necked parrots, galahs, cockatoos, budgerigars, crested pigeons, and even a wedge tail eagle was perched in a tree above me. It flew off, lumbering into the air with big lazy flaps of its immense wings; it must have been spooked by the sound of me trudging through the sand.
Laramba is a very beautiful place.